Dear Reader,
this booklet is supposed to be a cultural guide for students by students.
We, a group of Spanish, German and Polish students who have taken part in the Erasmus exchange program, want you to profit from our experiences we made during our stays abroad. In this special case we want to give you an introduction to the cultural life in Warsaw - a great city with a lot of hidden fascinations.
Wherever you'll go - and even if it is just the neighbour of your country - you'll find differences; differences which can enrich your stay or which could make you feel strange. To give you an easy start into your "polish life" read the following pages and think about what you have read when you go on the streets and open your eyes for new interesting experiences.
Enjoy yourself!!!
If you have any questions concerning your stay in Warsaw, drop us a line:
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We were Erasmus-students in the fall-semester 04/05 and we are looking forward to hear from you and your experiences in Warsaw.
Historical overview and facts about Warsaw
Warsaw, compared to other European capitals, is a very young one. First traces of settlement of humans turned up around 12000 b.C. but the first time it was mentioned in a document was in 1313 by Duke Ziemowit II. In 1408 New-Warsaw was founded and the later New Town.
The capital was moved from Krakow to Warsaw in 1596 by King Zygmunt III. Wasa. It was the time when Warsaw blossomed out. But the new welfare brought also dangers and during the invasion of the Swedish in 1655 the city was badly damaged. However, under the Saxon kings it was generously reconstructed (late 17th century). In general the Poles think of the 18th century as the golden century; the time when theatres and concert halls had an outstanding position within the cultural life in Europe.
This glorious time was finished by the Prussians, Russians and Austro- Hungarians (1795) when they incorporated and divided the country. During the invasion of Napoleon in 1806 the inhabitants of Warsaw had hope for freedom but they had to give up their wishes soon, when the Moscow campaign failed.
After the Vienna congress (1815) the Kingdom of Poland was established but it remained under the reign of the Russian Tsar. After the failure of the November Uprising the status of the city went back to the status of a province town and all institutions for education were closed. The situation changed with the beginning of World War I when the Russians lost their control over Poland. At the end 1914 Germans occupied Warsaw and stayed until the end of the war.
Afterwards Poland had again gained its independence and Warsaw got back the position of the capital city. But since the beginning of World War II the destruction of the city had began. The attack of the Nazi Germans was followed by deportations and executions. The terror was mainly directed towards the Jewish community which was forced to live in a small ghetto. It was the Jewish population that revolted first: The ghetto rebellion in April 1943 was terminated with the extinction of the Jewish community of Warsaw. During the further course of the war the Nazi Germans strengthened the pressure on Warsaw but at the same time the resistance within the city was growing. In August 1944 nearly the whole civil population took part in the Warsaw uprising, which was a struggle for independence of Warsaw and whole Poland. The uprising failed and Hitler ordered the total destruction of the city and the surviving population was expelled. At the end of the war 2/3 of the population of Warsaw was either dead or missing.
The city now is like a monument, reconstructed after World War II. The reconstruction of the Old Town was finished in 1953. In 1954 the city was closed for people who wanted to move there. In 1956 Warsaw has again 1 million inhabitants and the architecture of the city turns into a socialist-realistic one.
Today Warsaw is a place where people do not only live in houses but where they also live in their memory, history and culture.
This metropolis is a fast-changing place where people dream about their future and where they try to make their plans and dreams come true. This might be one reason why the appearance of Warsaw seems to be confusing, not only because of the mixture of new and old buildings or the mixture of elements of the East and West but also because the Old Town or the Royal Palace are younger than buildings from the Stalinist period.
Today Warsaw has about 2 million inhabitants and there are about 5 million tourists in the city each year. Poland as a whole is usually seen as a rather mono ethnic culture but Warsaw is slowly becoming a very multicultural city with Vietnamese, Ukrainian, Russian and many other minorities currently living there. Warsaw is also the biggest city in Poland divided into 11 boroughs.
And now one of the legends around the city you are going to live in:
According to one of the many versions, a mysterious creature emerged one day at the dusk from the waters of the Vistula River near Warsaw and began to sing magical songs. Those who heard her song would stand motionless until the mermaid returned to the river's watery depths. Her underwater habitat was the reason she had a tail of a fish. It was said that her long golden hair covered the world's most beautiful face. When the news about the half-woman-half-fish reached the Masovian Prince, he ordered for her to be caught and brought to his palace. Several of the prince's men set out to Warsaw at dawn.
Beyond the city, by a high bank they blocked their ears with wax and sneaked up through the bushes. In the evening, when the mermaid swam out, they caught her in their nets and pulled her out onto the riverbank. As night had fallen, they decided to find a place to sleep, and entered the first hut they found. The prince's men put the young fisherman who lived there in charge of guarding the mermaid while they slept. The great sadness in her eyes persuaded the young men to free her. He carried her to a cliff and she leapt into the river. At that very moment the young fisherman heard the cries of the prince's men who have realised what had happened. A hand emerged from the water, beckoning him to the river. He did not hesitate and jumped in. They are said to have lived in the waters of the Vistula, and the mermaid, out of gratitude to her saviour, decided to defend the city of Warsaw from its enemies.
Public Transportation
Public Transport - information and ´how to behave`
Public transport in Warsaw looks at first sight a little bit confusing, but don't worry, you'll get very soon used to it and then you will appreciate the system of busses, tramways and the underground (metro).
 Underground (metro)
Going by underground is the fastest way to come from one point to another in Warsaw, but there is only one line, crossing Warsaw from the north to the south.
 Tramway (tramwaj)
There is a well-developed net of tramway-lines in the more central parts of Warsaw.
 Bus (autobus)
Busses are going through the whole town, also to districts which are far from the centre. There are different types of busses. Special busses are recognizable by their bus-number:
- all busses with a number from 500 till 599 are going fast, only stopping at selected stops.
- express-busses, which have the letter "E" in front of the number stop only at the most important stops.
- there are busses, which drive by the most attractive sites in Warsaw. There is no special fee to pay, because they work as normal busses. They have the number 100 and 180.
- There is one bus going to from the city centre to the airport: number 175.
Buying tickets
It is possible to buy a one-way-ticket in the bus. But they are more expensive, and sometimes the bus driver may tell you, that the tickets are sold out, so you can choose between walking by foot or driving without a ticket. For that reason it is recommended to buy tickets before going by bus. You can buy tickets in the small kiosks all over the city. There are one-way tickets available, tickets for 24 hours, for 3 days, a week, one month and 3 month. They are valid for bus, tram and metro. If you stay longer than one week it is worth to get a city-card (Warszawska Karta Miejska), which is reloadable. You buy the card at a kiosk and load it for one or three month. Not all kiosks offer the service to load city-cards. The first time you use public transport with the city card you have to put the card near to one of the validators on the bus, tram or the gate at the metro. If there is a green light signal on the top of the machine, your city-card is valid. I you have a price-reduction for students, you should always carry your polish student-ID. Information about time table ( rozkład jazdy) and ticket prices and terms of transport ( taryfy i reguły) you can check at web side: www.ztm.waw.pl How to behave in polish public transport
It should be common sense in all countries, but perhaps it is important to mention it here: If there are no seats left and somebody who needs the seat more than you do, you definitely should stand up and offer the seat. Especially to the elderly, handicapped, small children and pregnant women. In Poland it would be very very uneducated not to offer the seat!
You will see also a special polish "sitting-behaviour": As there are mostly only single chairs in the trams couples very often share one seat.
Night busses
The normal public transport is working mostly until 11.30 pm. If you go home later (and, appreciating Warsaw's nightlife, you will definitely come home later than midnight), you have to take night busses. The numbers of this busses start with the letter N. They go every half an hour in all directions, starting at the central station. All night busses will only stop on request. That means you should let the driver know that you want him to stop by waving. If you want to get off the bus at a certain stop, you have to press the button over the doors.
You will hear very often the recommendation not to use the night busses, because they are dangerous. But if you go in busses with many people inside, it should not be a problem. The story of the ‘dangerous night bus' is perhaps more legend than true. But anyway, if you feel somehow unsafe, or if you are travelling alone and you can see, that there are some drunken people in the bus, think about taking a taxi instead. It's not very expensive.
Going by taxicab
Going by cab is probably far cheaper than in your home country. The prices are around 2 PLN for one kilometre during weekdays and 3 PLN at night and on Sundays. It is cheaper usually cheaper to order a cab, than to take one, which is driving by.
But UWAGA: be careful that you take a regular cab. Because there are some taxicabs, which are called "mafiacab" and they might have much higher prices, and can be even dangerous. The mafiacabs are not members of a certain company, and therefore have no telephone number on the "taxi"-sign on the roof of the car.
So make sure, that there is the number and the name of a company written on the sign on the cab. You can find cab stations everywhere in town, many are always waiting as usual on the central station. It is not necessary to give a tip, but if you liked the conversation with the cab-driver feel free to give a tip.
Accomodation
Where to live - city parts?
unsafe - Praga Płónoc
near underground - there is only one line- it goes from south to north through Ursynów, Mokotów, Śródmieście. Żoliborz
too far to live - Remertów, Włochy, Biełołęka, Wawer, Ursus, Wesoła, Józefów, Piaseczno, Targówek, Konstancin- Jeziorna (if you have a car you can think about it)
green districtes (green areas) - Żoliborz, Saska Kępa, Mokotów, Powiśle (part of the centre along the Vistula river
Renting a flat
- if you want to rent a room from an old lady ask if: she want you to help her in small home works (usually old people expect help), be back home before specific hour (before 10 pm), visits are allowed, what are hours of using kitchen and bathroom
- if you want to live with polish students look for a flat at advertising board at University of Warsaw and SWPS (mieszkanie studenckie means students flat)
- if you want to live in students dormitory (akademik) as for contact at student office (be aware that sharing room with one or two people is usual; sometimes people who don't have permition to live is dormitory live there, illegal, without paying in polish it's called waletowanie)
- if you want to rent a flat ask for help polish people (while renting a flat contract is not needed, don't be afraid, usually you live without contract - it's cheaper)
Where to find acomodation advertisments when you want to share a flat with polish students?
Warsaw University - mały dziedziniec (small courtyard) pierwsze piętro (first floor) - kącik za grosik
SWPS - tablica ogłoszeń studenckich (student's advertising board), first floor
Leisure Time in Warsaw
During the day
Going to a café for breakfast is not common in Poland, so you hardly find any cafés where you can get a real breakfast. But in most places you can buy toast, sandwiches etc. Or you start your day with one of the delicious cakes. You won`t have problems with finding a café. There are also many sport offers. Just ask at your university or look at the advertisements for special courses which you find at advertisement boards.
Useful information
Information about what´s going on in Warsaw you find in magazines. Just look for:
You get them for free or for a few złoty in cafés, bars or pubs. Read about theatres, films, music and other entertainment. Information about sightseeing and other information which are useful for tourists are available at the tourist information offices (e.g. at the train station "Warszawa Centralna" or in Krakowskie Przedmieście)
There are a lot of cinemas for example in ul. Chmielnia, in the Pałac Kultury etc. Most films are shown in the original version with polish subtitles. So just find out from which country the movie is and decide if you are able to understand this language or not.
Evening program
Generally speaking people here in Poland don`t need much artificial entertainment for having a really good party. But if you don`t know too many people yet or you just want to explore Warsaw from time to time, you will also find enough offers for filling your leisure time-schedule.
Private Parties
The more spontaneously such a party is taking place, the more fun it is. If you are invited, it`s impolite not to bring anything. Don`t think about presents, just buy something useful like something to drink, chips or cakes. Usually it`s not a problem to bring your friends. Polish people are masters of improvisation and together with their great hospitality this is the best recipe for a nice evening. But sometimes it`s better to anounce your companionship because otherwise there might be trouble with the space. This is quite the same like in Germany and Spain between students. What is particularly different is that most people love to dance and therefore it doesn`t have to be late for starting. Hosts like to show their hospitality and it`s impolite not to try what they cooked or prepared for you. Even if you already ate before, just pretend to be hungry -you won`t regret it!
Going out
There are a lot of possibilities of spending your leisure time -also during the week. You will find most of them in the city center.
I can`t answer the question whether you get to know people in Poland faster than in Germany or Spain. I think it depends on the place, the atmosphere and of course on you. But I think boys are asking you more often if you want to dance.
In clubs or bars with dancefloor you might recognize that people try to dance with you very close. If you like this or not will be your choice. If you prefer to dance alone or with more distance you have to repeat this a few times to make it really clear. One time saying "no" does not count.
Also very common is the "złote rozdanie" (=golden round): if somebody has cigarettes he offers them to everybody.
Drinking on your way in the streets, busses or parks (avoid going through parks at night!!!) is forbidden and you have to pay if you disobey this rule. Also smoking directly at bus stops is prohibited.
Unfortunately you are confronted with the problem of door selection in Warsaw quite often. You have to find out what to wear in which place and how to convince securities that your friend is not really drunk but just happy.
Choosing a place to go out depends on what kind of music you like and what kind of people you like to hang out with. Here's a list of places popular among Warsaw students:
- Café Kulturalna, Pałac Kultury i Nauki, Plac Defilad 1
- Pavilions behind Nowy Świat, ul. Nowy Świat 22/28 (entry at gate 24)
- Jadłodajnia Filozoficzna, ul. Dobra 33
- Łysy Pingwin (= The Bald Penguin ;), ul. Ząbkowska 11
- Saturator, ul. 11 Listopada 22
- Tomba Tomba, Brzozowa 37
- Punkt, ul. Koszykowa 55
- Hybrydy, ul. Złota 7/9
- Organza, ul. Sienkiewicza 4
- Lemon, ul. Sienkiewicza 6
- Sheesha Lounge, ul. Sienkiewicza 4
- Muza, ul. Chmielnia 9
- Piwnica pod Harendą, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6
- Indeks, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście (next to university)
- Tygmont, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8
- Enklawa, ul. Mazowiecka 12
Greetings & farewell
The usual thing for greeting and farewell is kissing the other one on the cheek. How and how often differs between different generations or groups. The most common version is one or two kisses on the cheek when you meet younger people. The traditional kissing behaviour which you might see between the older generation is 3 kisses. Men are shaking hands but not with girls. If you are new in a group as a girl and nobody knows you it might happen that you are just left out of the ritual: Nobody wants to kiss you because you are a stranger and shaking hands is just between men. In families also men are kissing each other on the cheek. (Family can also mean close friends. When people are talking about their brother or sister this does not have to be a "real" relative).
How to deal with Polish officials - How to handle with an average Pole - Some features of Our national character
I. Attitude to law
Once you find yourself in Warsaw the first thing you should remember - don't panic whenever you are facing our officials. It concerns all the situations starting with some SWPS authorities finishing with seemingly compulsive ticket inspectors on the bus. Everything can be explained by polish attitude to rules. We definitely tend not to bother too much about the obligations that law imposes on us. Here we can give you example of situation which embodies this typical polish feature:
Pole on the bus without a valid ticket
Ticket inspector: Good morning Sir, can I see your ticket
Pole:........ Sure........... I just need to find it at the bottom of my bag... Just a second, please.
After 10 min of nervous scrambling for ticket (that of course wasn't there) the Pole with an embarrassed smile on the face:
Pole: Well..... I must have lost it somewhere... I really don't know how it happened.....maybe somebody has stolen it.......people are so selfish.........It's inconceivable.
Ticket inspector: Well...you will have to pay fine. I'm sorry.
Pole: But....It's not my fault. I had it couple of minutes ago....
Ticket inspector: But now you don't have it and you will have to pay fine...
Your name, address please.
Pole: I won't pay anything! I had my valid ticket.
Ticket inspector: Your name and address please
After 10 minutes discussion
Pole: Ok ....how much will I have to pay?
Ticket inspector: 100 zł
Pole: 100zł?!?@#$%&But I don't even have such amount on my account...You know I'm a poor student. Hardly can I make a living....Maybe it is possible to....you know...to reduce the amount ?
Ticket inspector: You want to corrupt me?!
Pole: No!!! Not at all. How could I dare........
Ticket inspector: So could you finally give me YOUR NAME AND ADRESS. PLEASE.
The result of the conversation in this case was not the best one could imagine. Probably the poor student will have to pay a fine. Still, this way of negotiating is very common and sometimes may appear effective in the end. The same applies to discussions with some incompetent or unhelpful clerks. Never give up when they attain to send you back claiming that there is no possibility to solve your problem. There is always way out, just don't loose "cold blood" when they try to put you down.
II. Complaining
You should always remember that when the Pole seems to be down in the dumps and complains a lot it doesn't mean he is depressed indeed. Poles are a bit skeptical and avoid showing proud or high sense of self-esteem in direct, ostensible way. It's not that
Conversation between family members
Pole: How are you auntie?
Aunt: well you know, I've just left the hospital. I had this operation on my appendix
Pole: oh, must have been hard auntie...
Aunt: Was not that bad. I couldn't move for one week, but was not that bad. Other patients in my room - that was a disaster. Can you imagine? Woman living without liver?
Pole: No auntie!
Aunt: Yes, life is hard. And I can still feel the stitches. And your uncle... he is so immature. I cannot rely on him. Never. Yesterday he left kids at a bus stop...he simply forgot about them and got on the bus alone. He realized that something is missing when he got off.......
Pole: really?
Aunt: And...you know... All the housework, kids' home works, dog and the cat on my head. But it's not that bad. Our neighbors, that's a real story...
All in all we don't take such grumblings too seriously. However it is important to express admiration for stamina that our polish interlocutor has to burden with so many problems.
III. Hospitality
You may already know that poles are famous for their hospitality. You must be deeply aware of it when it comes to parties or family meetings. During this kind of events "at a big family table", not taking second or even third helpings might be seen as offensive by the host.
IV. Men & Woman know how
Men
Polish woman are quite emancipated. They are used to burden with everything themselves, while their husbands were on the war, took part in uprisings, were locked up in jails. Today they have to play the roles of businesswomen, housewives etc. Although they already took over men's posts, they won't admit they do without a man's "strong shoulder", and in man's behavior towards them they still value chivalry. While being in men's company they like to be treated as more privileged or even weaker ones. Opening the doors, letting the woman go first is something obligatory and common. Kissing woman in the hand might be a bit old-fashioned. However, your polish girlfriend's grandmother would be "on cloud nine" when you show her respect in such a way. When inviting a woman for dinner, to the cinema or theater man should take more cash than he would spend when being alone. Three times as much should be enough.
Women
If you are from Germany or countries that went through emancipation movement be prepared for a small cultural shock. Sometimes you may have an impression that you are not taken seriously by a man, only because you are a woman. When going into discussion with a man, do not try to prove that you have a greater knowledge or prevail intellectually over him. Men love to dominate (sometimes it is unconscious) and woman should only look up to their wisdom. Of course it depends on relation between you and your interlocutor. Man would very often appreciate your "brain-flexibility" and enjoy highly-intellectual conversation very much. Thus you don't have to pretend being naive all the time, unless you are interested in more intimate relationship.
However dating with a typical polish gentlemen is a real pleasure. He will knock at your door with a rose, take you to a restaurant, won't let pay the bill and assist you on your way back home. But be sure that you are dealing with a real gentleman. Chivalry is unfortunately in decline.
Polish Holidays and Customs
Poles are seen as a nation of fun lovers who enjoy festivities, traditions and centuries-old customs. The most ancient rituals, especially those dating back to pagan times, have long lost their magical character, becoming a colourful vestige of the past and a form of amusement. Links with tradition are felt the strongest during the greatest religious feasts, such as Christmas, Easter, Corpus Christi processions and All Saints' Day. Pilgrimages to holy sites are very popular; these include the Monastery of Jasna Góra in Częstochowa for Catholics; the tomb of Rabbi Elimelech in Lezajsk for Jews, the Grabarka Sanctuary for Orthodox Christians.
The two main national holidays are the anniversary of the restoration of independence in 1918, celebrated on 11 November, and the anniversary of the passing of Poland's first Constitution on 3 May 1791. These are official holidays with ceremonies, marches, concerts and other festivities.
Other holidays, quite different in character, include Women's Day (8 March; today much less popular than under Communism), Mother's Day (26 May), Granny's Day (21 January) and Children's Day (1 June), all less public and celebrated first and foremost at home.
Secular holidays
- January 1st - New Year's Day
- May 1st - May Day (Labour Day)
- May 3rd - Constitution Day (a national holiday celebrating the May 3rd 1791 Constitution)
- November 11th - Independence Day (a national holiday celebrating the restoration of independence in 1918).
Well...thanks for your attention.
We hope this guide will be helpful in leading
you through Warsaw-jungle.
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Warsaw guide